The best and the worst of Cambodia

It was our last day in Cambodia. We decided to spend some time doing touristy stuff. There is much to to see, in the exciting, vibrant capitol city of Phnom Penh.

BLOOM CAFE- Some of the Seaver students, who had studied in Shanghai, told me about Bloom Cafe. I decided we must experience the quality baked goods and commitment to serve others. You see, Bloom Cafe is the creation of Ruth and Murray Larwill. After Ruth had spent years providing vocational training in Nepal and Cambodia, she, her husband, and children moved from Brisbane to Phnom Penh. In PP, they established the first Bloom Training Centre. It is a place where young girls, coming out of sex trafficking, can learn hospitality and cake decorating, waiting on customers, running a cash register, etc.

The facility is gorgeous. Inside a beautiful villa, on St. 222, there is a wonderfully quiet seating area, filled with attractive furniture and delightful baked creations. The cupcakes were extraordinary. Undoubtedly, they are the best I have ever had. Crumbs, Sprinkles, et al, have nothing on these girls! Best of all, we know that we are helping young women begin life anew.

A bake shop is changing the face of Cambodia.

Bloom Cafe

Debbie having coffee

our treats

You can learn more about this special place at http://www.bloomasia.org/.

THE NATIONAL GENOCIDE MUSEUM- In the afternoon, we decided to visit the National Genocide Museum. It is located in the former school which the Khmer Rouge chose to use as its prison and torture site. The atrocities conducted here were unbelievable. Men, women, old, and young. They all went through the prison. Tortured for what the knew, or for what they were thought to know.

The prison has been left much as the Khmer Rouge left it. Bars remain on the windows. Barbed wire is still stretched across front of the classroom buildings. Torture beds are still in a few of the rooms. Bricked cells and chains in the floor remain.

The telling part of the museum are the photographs. No, not the graphic ones depicting torture and death. The alarming photos are those taken by the Khmer Rouge to document those who came through the prison. Blank stares and numbers safety-pinned to clothing are repeated over and over. Room after room contains stands of photos. For me, the eyes scream out. The demand my attention. In some bizarre tribute, I feel that I must look at each one - straight in the eyes. I somehow owe it to them. The purpose of the museum is to serve as a caution against this ever happening in Cambodia, or elsewhere. I hope its purpose is realized. Oh, please God, let it be so.

If you have not read the history of the Khmer Rouge, I suggest you read First They Killed My Father or When Broken Glass Floats.

Tonle Sap Lake & Siem Reap

This past weekend, we had the opportunity to visit Siem Reap. Siem Reap has millions of tourists each year, due to its proximity to Angkor Wat, the cultural heart of Cambodia. Many say that you have not visited Cambodia, unless you visit Angkor Wat. Well, we made it to Siem Ream, but we didn’t have time to go to Angkor Wat.

Siem Reap is a nice town. It is much smaller than Phnom Penh, and it also much quieter. Our purpose for going was to go to the Tonle Sap Lake. The Tonle Sap is the largest lake in all of Southeast Asia. It is about the size of Lake Erie. In addition to the people living along the lake, there are four very large boat villages. These floating villages are primarily Vietnamese. Many of these people will be born, live, and die, on the lake. There are schools, churches, restaurants, stores, and motor mechanics, on the lake. The poverty is alarming. Even though they live in poverty, they smile. It is amazing. The children still laugh and play. At the Vietnamese school, we found children on the “playground.” They were running and chasing one another. Some were playing a modified game of marbles.

There is a great need for medical care on the Tonle Sap. Partners in Progress is planning to put the Ship of Life on the lake, during the rainy season. The changing size of the lake is quite interesting. During the rainy season, the Mekong River swells to such an extent that it actually pushes water back up the Tonle Sap River. The Tonle Sap River runs backward and fills the Tonle Sap Lake. The Ship on Life only has access to the lake, during the time that the Tonle Sap is deep, running backward.

The pictures below are scenes from the Tonle Sap Lake.

Lake general store

housing along the canal

mechanic shop

partial view of a lake village

Vietnamese school on the lake

boys playing on the school "playground"

On Sunday morning, Debbie and I were privileged to go with Bill and Marie Claire to the Siem Reap Church of Christ. It was a great service. There are two capable men leading the work, there. The Bible class was totally in Khmer. While I had no idea what was being said, I was impressed with the conviction of the Chan, the teacher. Chan is one of the leaders. Debbie and Marie Claire chose to go to the children’s class. There were many young children in the class, and Debbie fell in love with them all. But, there was one small boy who she held throughout the class. If there weren’t laws prohibiting the adoption of Cambodian children, we would be going home with a child!!!!

Marie Claire with one of the little girls

children singing Father Abraham

A young man, a preacher school student (I think), delivered the sermon. It was translated by Panat, the other minister. It was a very good lesson, and he preached with commitment. There were many young men involved in the service. It was so encouraging to see them actively participating. The church is relatively young, but strong.

One treat while we were in Siem Reap was dinner and a dance show, at a local restaurant. The dinner was a wonderful international buffet. There was great Asian food, as well as some western food. I have always viewed an all-you-can-eat buffet as a challenge. They tell me, “you can’t eat all that you have paid for.” I feel compelled to prove them wrong. But, due to the heat of the day, I wasn’t playing my A-game. Don’t get me wrong --- I ate my share, but I think they won!

The entertainment was great. The performance included the elegant Apsara dancers. It is amazing to watch their hands and graceful movements, as well as their keen balance. We also enjoyed the traditional folk dances. Most of the folk dances dealt with the relationship between young men and women. They were lively and fun.

Apsara dancers

Folk dancers

Siem Reap and Tonle Sap Lake were a tremendous treat. We saw a new side of the Khmer culture. The one constant is the tremendous people.

The Crew, Part 2

The crew works together extremely well. They support one another and everyone is happy to do what it takes to get the job done. I was asked to present a teamwork workshop, for the crew, other Partners in Progress staff, the nutrition program staff, and students from Phnom Penh. The workshop went well, and we had some great discussion. I was not expecting many comments, but I prepared many questions, just the same. The discussion was lively and enlightening. Like most seminars and workshops, the information may not have been necessarily new, but it was a good refresher.

In the last post, you met half of the Ship of Life crew. Today, I would like to introduce the rest of the crew, to you.

Lieng, our night watchman, isn’t seen much. He sleeps during the day and is up all night. We get to spend breakfast and dinner with him. His English is good and he loves to joke with us. I have been able to teach some of his Bible lessons. Lieng impresses me as a bright and capable young man. His dream is to study at a university in the U.S.

Bunthuen is the Clinical Assistant. His responsibilities include the processing of new patients; taking name, age, weight, blood pressure, and temperature. Then, he gets the patient in queue to see the doctor or dentist. Bunthuen has good Bible knowledge and is the most advanced student. He is responsible for teaching Debbie and me the Khmer numbers – the patients all have numbers and we call them for triage and to see the doctors.

Dr. Tha is the physician. He speaks very little English. Observing him, you can tell he is compassionate and really cares for his patients. Since many of the guys cannot go home, on the weekends, Dr. Tha and his wife invite them to come and stay at his home in Phnom Penh. I have been told this is quite unusual for Khmer people.

Bun Roth, our pharmacist, is an interesting fellow. He loves to play with the children who come onboard. He is a real family man. He is eager to talk about his wife, his three daughters, and his home church. Now, there are five families meeting for worship, in his home. Like many people his age, he was touched very personally by the atrocities of the Khmer Rouge. Bun Roth is a great asset to the work.

Marie Claire McDonough is from France, originally. She has a true heart for missions. Marie Claire was involved in missions, before meeting her husband, Bill. She is the personification of the term, “comfortable in her own skin.” She loves the Lord and his Kingdom. She was the key person in beginning the Cambodian Back to School Program. While on hiatus from the work in Myanmar, she takes care of the pharmacy stock, book keeping, and other jobs to numerous to count.

Bill McDonough is the Director of Partners in Progress. He has served in Europe, the Caribbean, South America, Asia, and other places I am sure I have forgotten. He is instrumental in the Bible teaching through teaching English work, here in Cambodia. He started the nutrition program, for Khmer children. Of course, the Ship of Life was a significant focus of his efforts. He has begun a successful work in Myanmar, and will return to it, once a new Ship Manager is onboard.

My life has been greatly blessed – and changed - by spending time with these people. I hope you have enjoyed getting to know them.

The Crew - our key to success

I want to introduce you to the special people in our lives whom we have been blessed to work with, during our trip. The Ship of Life crew is a great group. They are committed to serving the people along the waterways of Cambodia. I can tell this is more than just a job.

In this post, I will share half of our new friends with you.

First, our Captain. He is a capable ship’s captain. He speaks limited English, but makes me laugh. When he speaks with the guys, the twinkle in his eye and his tone of voice let me know he is saying something funny. I laugh, along with the crew, and have absolutely no idea why I am laughing. I am impressed with his faith. He loves to sing, when we gather for our worship, on Sunday evenings.

Samath is the ship’s Engineer. He is a quiet man. His English isn’t strong, but he wants to learn. Because he is older, Samath automatically has the respect of the crew. But, they also respect him because when he does say something, it is valuable. Now, I call him the Engine Doctor. Some of the crew told me that when he walks through the village with our physician the people call him Doctor.

Jack is the Electrician. He is quite important to me – he keeps the air conditioning working. Like all of the others, he does many things on the ship. He is a great student. Debbie and I have been meeting with him for his Bible lessons, as well as grammar. He is already at the upper limits of my grammar knowledge! He is committed to his Bible study. It is a joy to study with him.

Piseth is kind or our “jack of all trades.” He is the Director’s Assistant. His English is strong, so he often interprets. He assists with maintaining the non-medicine inventory, as well as working with eye patients. He fits them with eyeglasses, as well as works to get those needing surgery to the eye hospital. Since we have been here, he was made arrangements to have 26 eye surgeries, mostly cataract, done. Piseth has a great heart for people, and is a fine Christian young man.

Sahn fills the tremendously important job of cook. Don’t let his youth fool you. He is quite capable. He prepares both Khmer and western food. He loves a challenge, and gladly takes on new western recipes. We have had meat pies, cream soups, stews, crepes, omelets, and much more. He makes wonderful breads. He spent time assisting a pastry chef and learned well! Debbie is about to spring the recipe for King Ranch Chicken on him. Also, we have been blessed to work with him on his Bible lessons. Sahn is a good student who is improving, daily.

Sokha assists Sahn, in the kitchen. He is quiet; his English is weak. He is working to learn more. He will share Khmer words with me, and I tell him the English equivalent. Kha is a hard worker. He does a lot of the grunt work, but never fails to have a smile on his face. He lives in Siem Riep, so he is the farthest from home. Luckily, one of our doctors lets him stay with his family, on the weekend, from time to time. When the ship moves to the Tonle Sap Lake, in July, he will be the closest to home. He is excited!

Enough for now. I will share the rest of this special group, soon.

Sunday morning worship, village-style

Week three began, wonderfully. At the end of week two, Piseth asked if we would like to attend a local church, on Sunday morning. Of course, we would. We knew it would be all in Khmer, but we were enthused to be in an assembly of believers.

At 7:30 a.m., we left the ship and walked to the building. It was a nice, open-air building. As the five westerners and one Khmer walked up, people watched closely. I guess, they don’t gets many visitors. We were warmly welcomed, and shown to the small rough-hewn pews/benches.

Services were at 8 a.m., we thought. We arrived in the middle of Bible class. It turned out that the worship service began at 8:30. Debbie and I felt right at home, since the Simi Church begins early service at 8:30! We watched a young lady, as she taught the younger children. I have no idea what was taught, but her love and patience was shining.

When the service began, we sang a couple of Khmer hymns – nothing identifiable. I am confident they did not come from Great Songs of the Church or Sacred Selections. After the congregational singing, the children got up and sang a song they had worked on. Next, it was time for the older youth to sing for us. There were about 10 young people. It was great to see them at worship service, and even better to see them participating.

Following the youth, the older members shared a song. Of course, they asked the visitors to sing. Bill McDonough, Piseth, and I went up and sang a verse of Jesus Loves Me (in English). The minister preached about placing new wine in old wineskins. I knew this only because Piseth was translating for me! At the end of the service, a couple brought their small son forward to dedicate him to the Lord. The minister prayed for the baby, as well as that the parents and church would prepare and support him in his walk of faith. It was quite touching.

During the service, a sweet lady brought an electric fan to the front of the audience and turned it towards our group. After a few minutes, a “sweeter” lady moved the fan directly in front of us. It was MUCH needed. My nice light blue shirt was already a dark blue shirt. I kept thinking how happy I was that the service was no later than 8:30!! I had a big red bandana to wipe my face and head. I could have used a bath towel. Summers in southern California have not served me well, when it comes to tropical life. I am confident all of the humidity saved from California has been shipped to Cambodia.

Many of the members wanted to talk with us and learn more. The young people, who are excited about being able to use English with native speakers, were excited. I enjoyed talking with the father who had dedicated his son to the Lord. He shared their trials in having a child, and how they counted this young boy as a true gift from God.

I continue to be impressed with the joy in the hearts of the people. This small church came together to sing praises to God, and I know God was pleased. Once again, I am reminded how much I take for granted.

The adventure continues.